CARE OF HORSES

by Dr. Lawrence Wilson

All information in this article is for educational purposes only. It is not for the diagnosis, treatment, prescription or cure of any disease or health condition.

Contents

I. Introduction

II. Two Important Case Histories

III. Feeding and Basic Care

IV. Biochemistry Of Horses

V. Other Topics

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I. INTRODUCTION

Horses are very special animals! They do a lot of healing on their riders, and on all human beings. They also help protect the earth in unusual ways.

II. TWO IMPORTANT CASE HISTORIES

These are very important part of this article. Please read many times:

1. Dying of A Sinus Infection. A woman called me and said her horse was dying with a sinus infection. A veterinarian had tried antibiotics and it was not working. She was giving the horse vitamins, including a lot of vitamin C and E. That was not working, either.

Wrong vitamins. When the woman mentioned the vitamins, I said the following: Those vitamins are for a slow oxidizing human or animal. They further speed up the oxidation rate (related to the metabolic rate).

If they are not working, most likely her horse is a fast oxidizer. This is most common. I suggested she stop the vitamins at once and instead give the horse plenty of copper, some calcium and magnesium, and a little zinc but not a lot. I also suggested stopping the antibiotic if it was not working.

Food. A horse in fast oxidation needs food that contains plenty of fat. Her horse was not eating much, but needed suet or something with fat, not just hay.

She did this and reported to me a few days later that her horses recovered.

2. Cushings Syndrome. One of our clients said her veterinarian told her that her horse has Cushings syndrome. This is overactive adrenal glands and a very fast oxidation rate. She was feeding the horse mostly dried hay and some alfalfa from a feed store.

I told her that at this time (February 2025), the thugs or satans or Rogues are poisoning horses. The poison is put into many foods sold for horses, including hay and alfalfa. The satans do not like horses because horses help out our planet in many ways.

I told her she must not use these foods, and instead put the horse out to graze grass or some other natural food. Hopefully, the feed store problem will be corrected, but we are not sure when.

She did this and the horse started feeling better within a few days. The horse was poisoned and did not have standard Cushings Disease.

III. FEEDING HORSES

Food. Grass. This is usually best.

Hay. Read the case histories above for problems with all food from feed stores. If you can find hay that is not poisoned, fresh hay is good. Old, dried out hay is not as good.

Vegetables. Horses love two or three raw carrots daily. Horses usually do not need cooked vegetables. However, at times they may need a few if they are not well, just for a short time to replenish certain minerals. These might include cooked carrots, onions, celery and a few green vegetables.

Choice. If possible, give a horse a choice of food. Just put several kinds of hay and several vegetables out for the horse, and allow the horse to choose.

Alfalfa. At times, alfalfa is good for horses, but only in very small amounts. Do not give horses other animal products, fruit or sweets of any kind.

Treats and snacks. Be careful with treats and snacks. Most are harmful and junky. For a snack or treat, give your horse a nice organically grown carrot.

Water. The type of drinking water may be important for your horse. If you have access to different types of water, give your horse a choice of drinking water. Some horses are ill from their water supply!

If you are suspicious of your horse’s water, look for a local spring to obtain better water. Another, more expensive alternative is to truck in water for your horse. But pay the extra money only if it is good water.

NUTRITIONAL SUPPLEMENTS

A properly designed development (old name is nutritional balancing) program administered by one of our Approved Helpers is a wonderful gift for your horse.

I set up all their programs, but not the programs of other people, including all veterinarians. If you are interested, contact one of our Helpers at the link above. BEWARE of imitators who say they do nutritional balancing. Most all of them do not do it correctly.

Few supplements. Horses need very few nutritional supplements. Giving more supplements to a horse is almost always a bad mistake, and can kill a horse. Never load a horse with supplements. In our experience, it is never necessary, and almost always quite harmful.

Especially do not give most horses vitamin C. Some vets recommend this.

SUPPLEMENT PROGRAM DESIGN FOR HORSES

When we design a supplement program for a horse, it will contain the names of the supplements used for human beings, followed by a multiplier. This is easiest for us.

The multiplier. A multiplier is used because horses need between 7 and 10 times the quantity of supplements as do human beings. This depends mainly on the weight of the horse.

Making up supplements for horses. The owner can use the Endomet products, but they are quite costly. A much cheaper method is to combine powdered nutrients yourself. WARNING. See the case history #2 above because some horse products are poisoned at this time. We don't know if this includes supplements. Here is the self-mixing procedure:

1. Check the main ingredients in the recommended supplements in the Endomet Supplement Catalog online and write them down. Examples are calcium, magnesium, copper and zinc.

2. Multiply the amounts of nutrients by the multiplier to obtain the doses for the horse.

3. Look in a feed store or online to buy the nutrients.

4. When you have the nutrients, mix them together in the right amounts for your horse. You might find a product that has what you need, already combined into one product – but this is less likely. Check your calculations at least twice so you don't make a mistake.

Each day, measure out the day’s powder, preferably with a plastic measuring cup so you can measure it quickly and easily.

A typical daily supplement program for a standard-sized horse that is not too ill. This will include roughly 7000 mg of calcium, 4000 mg of magnesium, 50 mg of copper, and 400 mg of zinc. Some choline, inositol and trimethylglycine are also quite helpful.

How to give supplements to a horse. Here are some ideas:

1. A great way is to mix the powder with a little carrot juice in a large syringe and inject it into the horses mouth. (no needle on the syringe, of course).

2. Mix the powder into some molasses. Most horses will then eat it.

3. Mix the powder with a little water with a little sugar or honey in it, and then pour it over the hay. Just make sure the mixture is thick enough to stay in the hay and not run off.

I know this is a some work, but your horse is worth it! Some day, I hope we will have pre-packaged powders for horses.

Less taurine for horses with a four lows pattern. It is possible for a horse to have a four lows hair mineral pattern. It usually occurs in an older horse who has been mistreated by either wrong feeding, too much exercise, or some other problem.

One note is that for horses with a four lows pattern, give less taurine. Horses do not need a lot of taurine, because they are mainly vegetarian animals.

Other supplement notes. Horses do not need vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acid supplements, as a general rule. Very few need vitamin C.

Horses usually need calcium, magnesium, copper, kelp, zinc, and selenium.

WARMTH

Horses like a warm environment. They can survive in a cold barn, but it is very uncomfortable for your horse. If at all possible, heat the barn, please. You will have a much happier and healthier horse.

Red heat lamps, the type used for chicken coops, are the most efficient way to do this. Your horse will enjoy the energy of the lamps, as well, even if they are not shining directly on the horse.

VENTILATION AND CLEANLINESS

Horses are prone to respiratory problems. Please make sure the barn is well-ventilated and always clean. Sorry for all the manure, but it is the way we are.

EXERCISING AND RIDING YOUR HORSE

Some horses like to be ridden, as long as the person is thin and not over about 100 pounds, and as long as it is not overdone. This is important.

Sweating. Never let a horse start to sweat. This is an indicator that the horse has ridden or exercised too much. Always let the horse rest for at least one hour, in this case.

Pushing. Do not “push” the horse to do more, in preparation for a race, for example. This does not work and will damage the horses hoofs and other areas of its body. You will not have a horse if you keep it up.

DETOXIFICATION PROCEDURES

1. Red heat lamps. Horses love red heat lamps. They are also excellent for horses health. A standard sized horse needs about four of them placed to the side or above the horse shining down on the horse. Be care that your horse cannot accidentally touch the hot lamps.

The reddish heat lamps also help keep the horse warm, which is very important. Horses love the temperature of their stalls to be at 60 degrees F. or a little warmer. Here are some ways to mount the red heat lamps:

1. Place them around the stall, facing the horse, and higher than the horses body, angling downward. This way your horse will not smash a bulb if he accidentally bumps up against it.

Always protect the bulb, in addition, as a horse could hit the hot lamp with his head, or by jumping up.

2. Buy a lamp “electrical unit” from one of the companies that sell saunas to human beings that are listed on this website. Click here for this page. Mount this in one corner of the stall, again above the height of the horse’s body. Make sure the lamps are protected, as well, by a sturdy guard. Add a second guard, if needed, to prevent a horse from hitting and damaging it.

3. Make your own light box. Enclose four lamps in a sturdy wooden box in a square or diamond shape. Place heavy-gage hardware cloth over the front as protection. Then place the box sturdily in a way the horse cannot hit it by accident. If possible, allow the horse to decide on which part of the body the light will shine.

IV. BIOCHEMISTRY OF HORSES

WARNING. Most horses are fast oxidizers. This is extremely important to remember. It means DO NOT GIVE HORSES A LOT OF VITAMIN B OR VITAMIN C OR VITAMIN E. These will likely throw your horse's mineral balance and body chemistry out of balance and can easily kill a horse (see the case histories above).

HAIR MINERAL TESTING FOR HORSES

Testing the hair is wonderful for horses. Otherwise, you are just guessing on what supplements they need, and perhaps what is going on with their hay and their water.

Sampling the hair. First, always take the sample from near the brain of the horse. This is critical for accurate results. The mane on the head is good.

Before sampling. Rinse the area with a little alcohol. This is better than using soap and water, which will wash out some of the water-soluble minerals.

Cut the sample as close to the horse’s skin as possible. This will give you the most up-to-date results. Then cut off all hair that is more than one inch long and throw away the long ends. You only want the “new hair” that is closest to the skin. It will leave a small bald spot, but that will soon fill in, and your horse does not care!

Which lab? We recommend Analytical Research Labs.

Note. All hair testing laboratories today wash the hair to some degree. This causes all the readings to be too low. One must raise the readings by at least 50% for any accuracy. Sodium and potassium are the worst and must be raised by about 100%.

Also, all of them at this time are forced by the aliens, thugs, or satans to lie about the iron, manganese and often the aluminum readings. They report them as low or near normal when really they are often extremely high. This is done to hide the black master conversion program of the thugs or satans.

Ideal values. This is a research subject. Here are the current ideal values we use. All measurements are in mg% (milligrams per one hundred grams):

Calcium 155

Magnesium 68

Sodium 158

Potassium 358

Iron 40

Copper 0.7

Manganese 1.2

Zinc 12

Chromium 0.3

Selenium 0.03

Phosphorus 25

Lead 0.02-0.04

Mercury 0.15-0.18

Cadmium 0.005-0.008

Arsenic 0.006-0.01

Aluminum 40-60

Nickel 0.011-0.05

Other hair analysis notes. Horses are unlike most animals in that they can be fast oxidizers, slow oxidizers, or they can live in a four lows pattern. (Most other animals are either fast or slow oxidizers, but are rarely in a four lows pattern).

V. OTHER TOPICS

Veterinarians. Horses do not like to complain. However, please keep the vets away, if possible. Too many are drug-happy and shot-happy.

A horse on a nutritional balancing program should not develop a lot of disease, and should not require vaccines at all. It also should not need de-worming with toxic products. A little garlic may be needed for this purpose, and this is all.

Horseshoes. Most horses like horseshoes. Find someone knowledgeable to put them on and check them occasionally for breaks, loose nails and the like.

Other articles on this website about animals are:

Cats And Nutritional Balancing

Cows And Nutritional Balancing Science

Cow Cases (Cows 2) And Nutritional Balancing Science

Deer And Nutritional Balancing Science

Dogs And Nutritional Balancing

Lambs, Sheep And Nutritional Balancing Science

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